La Belle Helene by MDCI Parfums is like a beautiful art-deco salon with some
old-time charm, yet still look and smell rather captivating in a way that I
just can’t take my eyes off (or to be more precise, my nose off my wrist).
It starts with this really juice, yet self-assured,
well-blended slightly lily-dominant caramalised fruity scent, which somewhat
reminds me a lot of Something about Sofia by Benefit, and Lalique Amythest. I
checked out the nose behind La Belle Helene, well, it’s Bertrand Duchaufour, I
guess this type of hate-or-love slightly earth and ‘wet’ sweet accord is the
Duchaufour signature then. I guess the chemical compositions do play tricks, as
I checked, the official top notes suppose to be more leaning towards pear,
tangerine, rose, lime, vetiver, osmanthus, ylang ylang, patchouli, Virginia
cedar, to name a few. I guess, sticking
with the ‘pear’ accord, La Belle Helene is one of the art-y, tasteful ‘pear’
perfume I’ve ever tried. It is neither too fruity/juice, nor too dry or
gourmand with sugar. Everything seems to blend so well, and at this stage, what
I can think of is some of those really exquisite Marie-Antoinette style dresses
in champagne colour and a lot of fine details would go well with the particular
mood La Belle Helene sets.
As the scent develops, the quasi-lily accord goes to the
background and becomes more echo-y and moised, i.e typical Duchaufour; while
the sweetness gets more settled and slightly warmed and spiced and dried up a
bit. I cannot detect any osmanthus, even though this note is one which got me
buying a sample of La Belle Helene by MDCI Parfums.
The final dry down is rather nice, it’s like warm, slightly
dry woody vanilla scent with a tiny bit muddled white floral touch.
As much as I loved some of the Duchaufour creations (and
came to hatred towards nearly the other handful), I guess La Belle Helene is
more in the slightly polarizing end and I can see myself hating this perfume
one day. I cannot handle this quasi-lily note well, however, if you are a
Bertrand Duchaufour fan and you love Lalique Amythest, but want something
slightly quieter in a more refined, lady-like way, give La Belle Helene a try!
But if you are on a budget and you don’t mind a more girly sweet opening and some
slight insence-y hint in the dry down, in addition to what you can smell in La
Belle Helene, I’d say, go for a bottle of Something About Sofia, Benefit makes
quite cute bottles by the way.