Tuesday 19 June 2012

Perfume-Fragonard-Soleil

Soleil, by Fragonard, with a burst of banana-y watery, lily dominant combination marking the start, is quite a replica of one of the popular 90's Armani perfume, which is either Gio or Aqua di Gio by Giorgio Armani (I remember one of my aunties has that perfume, however, since I don't have either Armani sample, I can't say definitively which one Soleil resembles).

After several minutes, Soleil is like a blooming white flower bouquet, with mainly lily and buttery, non-heady jasmine.

Then Soleil develops in a quite linear fashion. To me, as a jasmine/white flower hater, Soleil is tolerable, yet I still find the flowers too sharp here; however, I can see people praise Estée Launder's Beautiful Love, or Armani's Aqua di Gio (or is it just Gio?) will like this one.

One suspicion though, since several Fragonard scents I have tried are highly similar to, if not replicas of, some popular commercial perfumes, it's not impossible that some Aqua di Gio(or Gio?) regular wearer might find Soleil so similar to what they already have.

Monday 18 June 2012

Perfume-Fragonard-Grain de Soleil

Grain de Soleil by Fragonard starts with a thin, ethereal, peculiar sweetness which is like the type of ylang ylang sweetness trimmed down to something without any of the ylang-ylang-ness. Somehow, this reminds me a lot of the beginning of Givenchy's Ange ou Demon Tender.

Surprisingly that I'm not that surprised that Grain de Soleil develops, for the time being, really similar to the way Ange ou Demon Tender develops. At this moment, Grain de Soleil has more of a lightly nutty, sweet, slightly powdered modern-chypre-influenced swirl of jasmine added in.

As the scent develops further, it simply gets tamed into something nutty, pale-non-sweet-vanilla-y concoction, which is really similar to Auge ou Demon's dry down; also, this type of non-creamy-cake type of nutty vanilla is quite a reminiscent to Dior Hypnotic Poison.

Nice scent, but I'm disappointed again by Fragonard, for this scent doesn't have much unique-ness I would expect from a rather exclusive house. However, it is not Fragonard's fault judging that Grain de Soleil was launched long before Ange ou Demon, and if anything, it is Givenchy who's coping Fragonard. However, pity...that not many people even know of this French house.

Sunday 17 June 2012

Perfume-Fragonard-Reve Indien

Reve Indien by Fragonard
Leathery, smokey, dry sweetness of spice like cinnamon and vanilla in a smokey way marks the beginning of Reve Indien, by Fragonard, as well as got me immediately associate this scent with the legendary Shalimar by Guerlain. To be honest, as an occasional Shalimar wearer, these two scent smell nearly identical to me.


Seconds later, Reve Indien has this grown-up gourmand slightly rice-cake-y sweet syrupy woods infused accord coming in, to lighten up the whole scent and makes it a bit different from the smoother dry Guerlain-y vanilla dominant Shalimar.

Reve Indien develops in a quite linear fashion afterwards. It seems to me that the Fragonard scents I have tried so far have a pattern in developing, allow them stay on my skin for quite an average length and then stay close, lingering like forever, Reve Indien is no exception.

Overall, I'm quite surprised by this "Shalimar imitation" in a really good way, even though I find that Reve Indie is a bit too close to the real Shalimar. This perfume can be the Shalimar with a less smokey, but a bit more sweet amber hint, and can be easily worn by someone who doesn't always have that type of grande personality/occasion to pull off Shalimar all the time.

Friday 15 June 2012

Perfume-Fragonard-Diamant

Diamant by Fragonard
Diamant starts with the typical Coco Mademoiselle type of watery patchouli and muted mandarin combo, which actually does resemble Coco Mademoiselle a lot, just a bit heavier on the watered patchouli and less the nearly 'sports' perfume kind of 'fresh' aquatic smell. Minutes later, Diamant start to diverge a little bit from the Coco Mademoiselle core. Diamant, on top of the watery-patchouli-muted-mandarin-combo, has a swirl of cooling sensation added in, which is similar to the cooling feeling baby powder gives off, but he, there's no baby powder smell.

On my skin, within 2 hours, Diamant has reached a prematured death/dry down, which is quite nice, but unfortunately it h as zero sillage at this stage. It is totally transformed, no more Coco Mademoiselle type of patchouli or sports-perfume-y smell, what is left is just dry vanilla with a hint of dry woody sweetness, and a ghostly thin yet beautiful and not-in-your-face jasmine (like the one you can smell from Dior Pure Poison) lingers around every now and then for the coming hour.

The final dry down is the dry sweet woody vanilla lingering, some what it has a shy Chanel Les Exclusif-Coromandel-ish charm, which I find rather elegant than merely foody or woody vanilla.

Final verdict? I find that Diamant is a nice cocktail of Chanel Mademoiselle and growing up into the Les Exclusif Coromandel. Not bad as a perfume, but since Chanel is more available and more determined to express one personality, I'd say, make up your mind, Diamant, and I would much prefer to go for either one of the safer (eh-hum, I mean stable) Chanel perfume.

Sunday 10 June 2012

Perfume-Fragonard-Billet Doux

Billet Doux by Fragonard
From the burst of melow-y melon nectar sweet to something like rich, fragrant, gourmand sweet osmanthus rice cake smell with some background rich silky rose hint, Billet Doux definitely can lure quite a number of osmanthus lovers or rich-sweet-foody-floral lovers in.


After a while, Billet Doux settles down a bit and the sultry, creaminess coming through. It is like plum jerky sweet-sour mouthwatering aspect meet something slightly creamy, this harmonious concoction reminds me a bit of Bond No.9's Chinatown, but Billet Doux has a bit more osmanthus/apricot-y-rice-cake powdery foody smell which Chinatown lacks, while Chinatown has creaminess which is not shy to say that 'I am the gardenia' along with the comparatively more dominant and sweet sandalwoods.

After about 4 hours, Billet Doux doesn't have much sillage by lying close to the skin. To me, the dry down is a really beautifully well-mixed concoction. Call me crazy, but it does smell of sweet, vanilla-y sultry plum jerky in a fizzy, bubbling quasi-Cokecola mixed way to me. Despite my disapprove of thick, sugary scents, this Coke smell actually smells rather cosy and refreshing at the same time to me and I do like it.

Would I recommend it? Yes I will, as long as you are the type with patience for the dry down (because to me, the top notes phase and quite a bit of the mid notes phase isn't that amazing and Bond No.9 does a better job in Chinatown), and if you have the leisure to go to France to test it out or have the money to bling-buy it.

Thursday 7 June 2012

Perfume-Fragonard-Juste un Baiser

Fragonard, as a brand based on France and seems exclusively distributed there, along with its perfume museum, seems to be one of the ‘must-visit’ places on a perfumista’s list. I have heard hypes about this brand, but unfortunately the time when I was in Paris, I wasn’t into perfumes yet.
Fortunately, I’ve got my hands on some samples and decent decants via swapping with other perfume lovers.
I’ll be posting reviews on these Fragonard perfumes I’ve tried gradually. So…for today, it is Juste un Baiser.

Juste un Baiser by Fragonard
Juste un Baiser means “Just a kiss” in English, and it is a rather girly sweet nearly all-fruity perfume to my nose. Juste un Baiser gives me the general impression of a shampoo-strength body spray for little girls, not even teenagers I’d say; but strangely I find Juste un Baiser can be worn by anyone as an anti-perfume perfume, in the sense of nearly-zero sillage, cute sweetness can be mistaken as the shampoo residue.
Image of raspberries, blue berries, cherries and sweet yam
Ok, about the scent itself, to be, the beginning is a mix of blueberries and many other berries, cute but a bit all over the place; plus this oddly watery tone, Juste un Baiser gives me headaches. Eventhough the headache isn’t as bad as when I smelled some really cheap synthetic-smelling perfumes, yet Juste un Baiser really gets me and it is quite annoying in a way.
After a while, the berry accord is less distinctive and the scent start to bloom and my headache is gone. It smells more powdery than before, with a shy touch of general floral-y hint. Even though it is not my typical accord which I would call vanilla, Juste un Baiser has this smooth, slightly creamy, yet kind of watered-down vanilla note in it to make this scent more cosy than before. And this very draw down makes me smile, and really like this perfume because it smells of simple body spray which really evokes childhood memory and innocent senses, maybe just as the name says, Juste un Braiser.

I am happy that I got a decent decant (5ml) of this perfume via a swap, and waited till the top notes are gone so I actually enjoyed the dry down a lot. However, to be honest, will I really splurge on a bottle of Juste un Baiser, unfortunately the answer is no.

Tuesday 5 June 2012

Perfume-Hilde Soliani-Fraaagola Saalaaata

Fraaagola Saalaaata
Yes, Fraaagola Saalaaata is the name of this fragrance. I got this as a bonus sample and haven’t really paid any attention to it for quite a while because I really can’t take such a name seriously; the name is like really unprofessional dumb person who’s trying to be cute and drag-spells things and I guess I had bad experiences with some girls like. Anyways, when choosing a name for a finish product, I just can’t really get my head around how can someone seriously choose such a name.
I guess I was wrong for assuming that perfumes should be a like fine art (well, some of them are, which is the very thing made me interested in perfumes), there can be ‘fun’ ones. Fraaagola Saalaaata is one of those perfumes which wouldn’t intend to be taken seriously at all. It is fun without responsibility.
The scent simply smells of strawberry ice cream (without any vanilla-ness) to me. The very beginning is a bit coarse, with the strawberry scent stings my nostril a little bit physically, which is quite unexpected, as this type of sting is really similar to the real strawberries’ potent sweet fresh and nature strawberry-ness. Soon after, some close-to-none creaminess has been added in, and this makes Fraagola Saalaaata a mouth-waterying strawberry ice cream, but beware, this is not your gourmand high grade strawberry ice cream,  it is a bit coarse, the vanilla base isn’t as smooth or rich, the strawberry isn’t as ripe, things here has this lower-than-homebrand-goods-ness in it, but it still works nicely, just like when you were camping for days and you find anything delicious and you wouldn’t care if it is from a particular brand. I checked the website, it seems that ‘strawberry’ and ‘salt’ are the only ingredients in this, I guess this explains a lot why this scent gives me the breeze sting in my nostril and why the strawberry ice cream just doesn’t smell as creamy or gourmand.
Basically, I have nothing more than “strawberry ice cream” to say about this scent, the longer you let it develop (I guess the salt notes will disappear more), the smoother and nicer it smells on the skin.
I can see a pre-teen spraying this happily, I wouldn’t mind to wear this when I have a craving for strawberry ice cream; however, to be honest, I cannot seriously treat this as a perfume, just like that I cannot seriously treat many of Demeter’s scents as real perfumes. Unless you are seriously looking for and wanting to wear non-creamy strawberry ice cream scent on you, I’d say this is just a sample-worth fragrance if you have a sweet tooth.

Monday 4 June 2012

Perfume-Boudicca-Wode(Paint)

Image of the perfume bottle of Wode (Paint) by Boudicca, which looks like an street artist's spraying can.
Image of the perfume bottle of Wode (Paint) by Boudicca.
Wode (Paint) by Boudicca surprised me in the weirdest but amazingly intrigued and addictive way.

It's a rather linear scent in comparison with many other perfumes.
It does change, but really smooth and subtle.

It starts with a juniper dominant scent with a lot of other background scents mixed so well that I cannot tell what they really are. It makes me feel cold, a little bit lazy, tired, but relaxed. It feels like, without the lights on,you sitting in your study and watching through the window in a dim rainny winter afternoon.

As the blue paint disappear, the scent gets sweeter, but it's certainly not the dull, sharp, plastic fruity sweetness you get from the mall. It's comforting and I feel really peaceful, like walking on dry leaves in a warm autumn day. It's a kinda dry sweetness with really light smokey edge, and somehow makes me think about tea leaves and tobacco leaves and some shy dry flowers mixed with sun-dried hey.

Within two hours, the scent strats fading away. I can detect a trace of sweet sweat scent(which is more towards the plain milk biscuit kinda sweetness rather than a sexy Cabaret type of sweat). Suprisingly, this veil of 'sweat' scent is really comforting and I totally love it.

However, Paint doesn't last(normally edts lasts 5-7 hours on me). I am wondering is that a part of the art for Wode(paint)? As if it wanted to get some messeges cross, like 'Lovely moments aren't long, what's left is the memory' or 'What considered as Arts of a certain era is really temporary in comparison with the human civilization' etc... Well, I guess I've been thinking too much because I really love Paint.

About the presentation of Wode(paint), it does have some really interesting concept and played with acid-base science well. However, I guess, to different people, the 'magic-ink' cliché will either make or break the impression of the perfume. Anyways, it is really brave and interesting.

You should at least try it once in your life. :-)

Friday 1 June 2012

Perfume-Thierry Mugler-Angel EDP, Angel EDT, Angel Sunessence, Angel Garden of Stars-Violette Angel


"Are you wearing Angel perfume?"
That is a pick-up line appears every now and then in TV series or in a novel, sometimes I do wonder, have the authors smelt Angel, or any version of it? Because in the little world of perfumistas, despite the name "Angel", Angle by Thierry Mugler has been a rather polarizing perfume. 

I happen to like Angel a lot, but it is definitely not love at first site. It is more of a fascination at n+ site (where n equals to or larger than five times of trying).
Well...about the Angles...

    Image of Angel perfumes EDT and EDP, in different volumes and different shaped star bottles.
    Image of different Angel perfums
  • Angel EDP by Thierry Mugler
Angel by Thierry Mugler is definately not a perfume for everyone, and some people missed out its beauty because of the unusual opening. It takes me several months to finally got that ‘ah-ha’ moment and have loved Angel since while before this ‘ah-ha’ moment I hated it with a passion and usually wash it off before I let it develop.

Angel is really complex; I cannot really distinguish any single monotone note.
The opening is dark, oriental but not too woody middle-east type of oriental. It’s patchouli-y, dark-chocolate-y while there is definitely some kind of fruity undertone which is barely there but essential for softening and brightening up this opening. It is like some kind of sweetness covered with heavy sensual licorice-hinted woodys, while vanilla-blended gourmand aspect simply running along. If Lolita Lempicka was a cheerful girl in up-scaled Chrismas party, then Angel is the same girl left a party early, holding the heels in one hand and texting by the other, and walking alone in dark lanes at night in a big city that never sleeps, to somewhere she knows she would rather end up.

Later on, it gets warmer, and some vanilla and sweet notes come in, in a really sensual and elegant manner instead of the sweet sticky pop pink way. Angel is really gourmand, vanilla-y in a foody way. The caramel is perfect mixed with the popcorn note here, I can smell it every now and then but it never bores you like some straight sugary ones.  I cannot help but thinking about Shalimar, tho these two scents are not similar scentwise, but they evoke something, some vision, some kind of sentiment you might get from a film noir. If Shalimar was the nice, soft. really femmine side of a girl who has dinner by candle lights, using gorgeous Victorian style cutleries; then Angel was the girl who wears her black corset with a millitary coat on top of it and holding a Chai-Latte rushing through the subway.

The dry-down on me is really vanilla-creamy with the buttery caramel popcorn accords, all in a cosy comfortable way, which reminds me a line: "...everyone sleeps like a baby at night."
However, Angel seems to be one of the very perfume I can smell a difference from people to people, despite that I don’t really believe in the skin-chemistry thing and still speculate that’s just the way sales people get you to believe that you are unique; but anyways, it seems that after one hour of wearing this, the patchouli or oriental-related notes all vanished on my skin and as I said above, Angel is complex, but mostly I got gourmand, popcorn, caramel, vanilla on me; while I smelt really booze woods-infused patchouli on one other girl; and really bad quasi B.O scent on a woman who I saw sprayed Angel EDP on in the duty free shop and set besides me in the plane for one of my really unforgettable 10-hour flight.

Angel is a polarising scent, due to my love to Angel, I do recommend everyone to, at least, give it a try, to see if it is for you or not. Maybe you’ll fall in love with this too. Apply with a light hand and enjoy :-)




  • Angel EDT by Thierry Mugler
Later last year, Angel Eau de Toilette by Thierry Mugler has launched, in a comet bottle and a slightly hue of the blue juice. Personally I have nothing against the original Angel, the EDP and I find that if sprayed with a light hand, or spray 1 hour before you go to work, Angel EDP works perfectly for daytime too. Oh well, they have bring in the EDT. The bottle-hovering part of me simply blind-bought a bottle, thinking nothing can go wrong with the EDT version of one of my beloved scent. I was wrong!
The start of the scent is like un-sweetened pineapple, berries and some other discreet fruity notes mixed with a minimal amount of slightly chocolate-flavoured milk and a dash of caramel-in-spirit.
After the rather radiant opening, Angel EDT goes quite linearly, with the fruity aspect tamed and the warm, sweet, milky vanilla-to-be aspect mingled with the typical patchouli and fuzzy buttery aspect the original Angel EDP has. This combination does make me think, oh well, this is a sheer version of the Angel, but it is so sheer, that I find the watery diluted-ness somehow ruins the original. I guess I’m a diehard Angel EDP fan then. Nevertheless, the EDT is pleasant, much less demanding of the wearer and really can be worn any time of the day.
To me, even though Angel EDT does have some resemblance to the original Angel, but it is more like a plain training bra, if the original one is a glamorous sexy laced-up high-end proper bra. Angel EDT to me, scentwise, is Escada-ish girly fruity scent mixed with ten times diluted Angel EDP, while the caramal, the chocolate, all the trademarks of Angel EDP have been suppressed to minimum, yet for strange reasons, Angel EDT still retains some of the Angel EDP-ness. If you want to finally be able to wear the Angel,  give Angel EDT a try; if you are expecting something more than simply a people-pleaser version of Angel, skip sampling this, you won’t miss out that much.



  • Angel Sunessence, by Thierry Mugler
Angel Sunessence is the limited edition flanker of Angel, launched in 2010. It disappointed me a lot. Since I'm a huge fan of the original angel, and thought the summer version would be just a little bit lighter and cheerful. How wrong I was! This version is indeed cheerful, too cheerful to retain the original Angel's essence. I sense a lot of bergamont and tropical accords made from hibiscus and well mixed berries.
This smells really cliché, like a cross between Chanel Chance Eau Fraiche’s opening freshness and some floral fruity sweet perfume release after 2000; and all the above got moulded into a quasi-Angel mould but couldn’t even fill it properly.

When Angel Sunessence settles down, it's less 'out' or odd. It has the creaminess base, but smells like a barely there watered-down Angel's dry down. If it was just a diluted Angel drydown, I would be happier. However, to me, the 'summer' accord in this Angel has some weird plastic-y honey in it which makes it hasty and nasty to my nose.

If you don't particularly like Angel's heavy, dark, strong and gourmand smell, and you tends to wear 'summer' type of scent, like echo-y, fresh, tropical scent, or find perfume like Chanel Eau Fraiche beautiful and more your thing(in comparison with perfumes heavy on vanilla, chocolate, etc), maybe Angel Sunessence will be the version of Angel that belong to you. However, honestly, I wouldn't recommend this flanker of Angel to anyone.



  • Angel Garden of Stars - Violette Angel, by Thierry Mugler
Violette Angel, as the name implies, is like the original Angel EDP mixed with violet and it is from the Angel Garden of Stars series from Thierry Mugler. I am not that impressed with this, but for whoever finds Angel just too much, and want something slightly cherry-chocholate-y and violet-candy-ish, give Violette Angel a try.
The beginning of Violette Angel is like the chocolate powder/solids, caramel, patchouli, nearly BO-ish (to some), Angel EDP opening. I personally find Angel EDP nice and the opening not as BO-ish as some might describe, but Violette Angel really makes me think of BO and it is quite disturbing.
Good news, the opening is short-lived and Violette Angel quickly settles to this rich, nearly dark-chocolate-y, and violet candy combo glazed with some dark cherry flavoured syrup. I know it’s odd to smell cherry in this as it is not listed in the notes, but who knows, it could be some chemical in the perfume which is also of the chemicals contributed to the real cherry flavour. In comparison with the original Angel, Violette Angel has this breeze light violet floral vibe in it, and from a distance, it smells rather transparent, watery in a good way, and might be the more wearable version of Angel to those who find Angel to dramatic.
As the scent develops in a rather linear fashion after this point, what I can smell is the cherry-sweetness dying and the oddly patchouli-ish incense-wanna-be sweet boozy accord try to come out but couldn’t, which reminiscent the D&G Anthology 10 Le Roue de la Fortune, which is another scent I tried to like but ended up finding it more underdeveloped.
Violette Angel might be hard to find in the average shopping mall, but In Black by J.Del Pozo could be easily spotted at a discounted rate in any of the PerfumeConnection shop and to my nose, there is a similarity with regards to the cherry-syrupy-chocolate aspect in both of the fragrances; not to mention that I find In Black a bit more pleasing as it stick to be more a straight gourmand-y scent. So…I guess, before you splurge on a blind-buy of Violette Angel, maybe try In Black first. I speculate that hardcore Angel lovers might find Violette Angel more a child’s play while Angel-haters won’t find Violette Angel that much different from the original.